“Roots, labour, exaltation” is the motto of this wonderful, biodynamic estate. Menetou-Salon is a neighbour of Sancerre on a similar mix of Kimmeridgean chalk and clay.

The estate is notably old and the story began in 1768 when Francois Gilbert abandoned his job as a publican to take over his father in law’s vineyards. Cut to the 20th century and it remains in the Gilbert family under the watchful eye of Philippe. A passionate follower of biodynamics, the estate is certified by Ecocert and Demeter.

A recent change in the winemaking team has taken the wines to a new height of quality, and the conversion to this most demanding form of farming has paid off in beautifully balanced, concentrated Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir with pronounced minerality and length of flavour. Such progress in quality has allowed Philippe to realise a series of single-vineyard wines designed for longer ageing. All his wines show the possibilities of the appellation beyond the limitations of crisp, early drinking whites and light reds.