Something has been stirring beneath the surface of the wine world for many years. The unique flavours and textures of volcanic wines have captured the attention of wine lovers and they can’t get enough of them.
As the changing climate with its higher average temperatures, earlier harvests and extreme weather make life for the grape grower ever more challenging, the more resilient volcanic terroirs shine through for their consistency. From rugged, high-elevation vineyards with nutrient-rich soils to desert-like conditions with only ash for earth, the often uncompromising terroirs can cope with just about anything.
It’s no surprise that volcanic wines are a source of fascination – volcanoes are fascinating things! They helped shape the earth as we know it and the hot springs and minerals created by volcanic activity have nourished people, and crops, since time immemorial.
But while it is these minerals that are thought to give wine grown on volcanic soils their unique, smoky salinity and high acidity, it’s only part of the story. The vines are often grown on steep slopes, which lengthens the growing season and maximises ripening. The soils drain quickly, so the roots dig deep into the volcanic bedrock, increasing the concentration of flavours in the grapes. The soils are resistant to phylloxera, the infamous pest that destroyed vines all over Europe, meaning lots of local, indigenous varieties have remained.
The resulting wines are intense, dramatic, expressive, not to mention great with food. As recent headlines remind us of the ferocious nature of volcanoes – from Etna’s eruption last month to the Reykjanes’ rumblings this week – we thought we’d highlight a few bottles from our shelves which have been shaped by the fiery mountains.
Biondi Outis Bianco 2020, Etna, Sicily
Located on the north-east of Sicily, Mount Etna is known as a subduction volcano, meaning it’s created from hardened lava which has spilled from the top to create a mountain. It is growing all the time, and hardy winemakers are reviving the once-derelict region, venturing higher to take advantage of the mineral-rich soils and cooler sites. The Outis Bianco a textbook volcanic white, with salty minerals, gorse flowers and nut skins.
Orosz Gabor Tokaji Birtok Furmint 2019, Hungary
While there are no active volcanoes, the Pannonian basin here was once a hive of activity. Arcs of volcanoes run throughout the area, and locals still benefit from the thermal springs and mineral pools that remain in the countrysides. Winemakers are still discovering the best volcanic sites here, and Orosz Gabor is leading the charge. His Birtok cuvée is a blend of vineyards planted with Furmint on hard basalt tuff and decomposed zoelite soils. This is firm, viscous and rich, with a little fresh apricot and the characteristic minerality on the finish.
Villa Guelpa Boca 2020, Alto Piemonte, Italy
From the higher-altitude vineyards of Piemonte, the Boca DOC differs from its neighbouring Barolo and Barbaresco thanks to its ancient volcanic porphyry gravel, left from supervolcanos dating back millions of years. A blend of Nebbiolo with a little of the local Vespolina grape added, this is perfumed, intense and transparent, with rosehips and a tannic grip.
Barbeito Tinto Negra Single Harvest 2010, Madeira
The island of Madeira is the southern tip of a huge volcanic iceberg which spans 700 miles under the Atlantic Ocean. While not considered active as such, there are still trapped gasses in the rocks, illustrated by ripples in the tarmac of the roads travelling through the island’s many tunnels. Barbeito has long-championed the often-neglected Tinta Negra grape and this cuvée, with its rich butterscotch and crème brûlée aromas make it the perfect end to any evening.