Chinese food is perhaps the most expansive and diverse in the world. It reflects the soul and people of this massive country that spans over 50 different regional cuisines and feeds billions daily. Even within provinces subtle variations can be seen with a myriad of local ingredients giving rise to unique local traditions. It is the depth and breadth of Chinese cuisine that I find most exciting and a favourite pastime of mine is to frequent as many Chinese restaurants in London as I can with the gluttonous fancy of a Qing emperor.

The Chinese food scene in this city is changing rapidly and diversifying as we become even more of a global melting pot. And this means that we are seeing more and more regional Chinese cuisines that were not previously here.

This past weekend my friend and I visited a new Hunanese spot aptly named 'Fiery Flavours'. Hunan is not far from Sichuan and the cuisine is similar. Both centre the flavour profile around 'mala' or numbing-spicy – the combination of chilli and Sichuan pepper. However, the balance places a bigger emphasis on the chillies rather than the peppercorns.

It was an exceptional meal consisting of braised pork belly and pickled mustard greens served with steamed bao buns; stir-fried tripe; and Kung Pao chicken. The key is to be adventurous when experiencing new cuisines, and with this in mind I can't help but think of what I can pair with this meal.

China's viticultural history is recent, and the most common drinks pairings are rice wines and spirits, as well as beer – but the Chinese wine market has boomed in recent decades and tradition is no longer the norm. The world of wine is constantly evolving and changing finding new and unexpected food pairings with almost endless possibilities.  

Below are a few of my favourites. Let me know if you try them!

Monty

Duck and Right Bank Bordeaux

My favourite Cantonese roast duck is here at Goldmine in Chinatown. The first time I had it, it was a moment of pure bliss; rendering me incapable of communication except grunts of exultation. I love duck with a red wine that has a bit of age, some structure and acidity. This Lussac Saint-Emilion from Moulin de Grenet ticks all of those boxes having notes of meat and forest floor with smooth tannin; where its acidity complements the fatty, caramelised skin perfectly. Cantonese is generally very low on spice, so something with a bit of alcohol and structure is going to pair with almost everything else like the full array of Dim Sum. A personal favourite is turnip cake and XO sauce.

Sichuan and Mosel Riesling

Now, Sichuan gets spicy. I'm talking a euphoric buzz spicy. And, I don't want it toned down. That's why my go-to is Old Street Chinese Restaurant. However, the enemy of spice can often be high alcohol so this poses a hurdle. But a hurdle that can be leapt over with the help of an exhilarating Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel in Germany. This thirst-quenching example from Maximin Grunhaus is packed with slaty minerality, stone-fruit and floral notes that work expertly alongside the powerful chillies and the intense numbing citrus of the peppercorns. Piercing acidity helps to cleanse and refresh between each bite. 

Xinjiang and Cremant de Loire

The food of Xinjiang is some of the most interesting. This region is located at the centre of the historic silk road trade routes. This has created a culinary culture that blends the Middle and Far East. Where else can you find hand-pulled noodle alongside kofte or heavily spiced cumin lamb skewers with pitta? I’d go for Et Les in Walthamstow. This being said, a traditional meal would not be complete without the astutely dubbed "Big Plate Chicken" – slow braised and spicy chicken atop a bed of toothsome rough-cut noodles. For this I want something light. Sparkling wines are generally lower in alcohol which work with the spice of Xinjiang food, as well as elevating any meal. This blend of local grapes from the Atlantic Loire gives zippy acidity alongside a decadent mousse, baked apple and biscuit.